Doc Paskowitz, one of the earliest creators of today’s surf culture. After leaving the hospital in Hawaii he worked at as a doctor, he packed up a van and drove away. That was the beginning of nearly twenty-five years on the road, raising nine children with his wife in a succession of different vehicles. Their life revolved around surfing, loving, and Doc’s general ideas about how life is supposed to be lived. “Going on the road was not a planned, contrived choreographed decision...It was in keeping with the lifestyle that I grew up with.” There are a million stories out there about the adventures he took his family on, and they tell a tale of a man driven to do exactly what he thought was right. For better or for worse, Doc was a supremely principled man.
